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A Music Filled Day

Wednesday, June 28, 2006
I decided to bring my MiniDisc recorder to the JAFON center in the hopes of interviewing Rewat about his background, why he started the program, and where he hoped it would go.

Instead, I was greeted with guitars, a drum, and singing. I will post audio as soon as I download and edit it from the recorder.

practicingredhat


15 days in...

and I am wearing the same pair of pants.

Sorting at JAFON

Monday, June 26, 2006
Today was the second time I visited the JAFON center in Patan. As with the first visit, the children and youth at the center were more interested in posing for the camera than anything else. They did appreciate the photos that Rene had printed the night before, and I plan on bringing more from this visit the next time I go.

After about half an hour of posing for the camera in front of the center, in the center, on the side of the center, and in back off the center, everyone finally seemed to start to notice me a little less.

portrait sittininchairs

I was able to photograph the youth sorting and weighing garbage, as well as playing caroms and sleeping. I hope to come back during the day when they are having class and watching television as well document the youth’s time away from the center.

weighing garbage



Update from Kathmandu

I am no longer staying at the Kathmandu Guest House. In an effort to save some money, I now reside at Hotel Northfield, about four buildings down from KTM Guest House. I have gone from spending $7.50 a night to $3 a night.

As far as wireless internet access is concerned in Kathmandu, I know of three hot spots, all within the Thamel area. At Java Coffee House, you can purchase internet access in hour increments for 30 rupees an hour. Kathmandu Guest House allows the purchase of one, three, and five-hour increments at a rate of 60 rupees per hour. New Orleans Café is where I find myself most frequently, due in large part to their free wireless internet access during the day.


A New Purpose in Nepal

Sunday, June 25, 2006
I am now taking photos for an organization called Jagaran Forum Nepal (JAFON). JAFON is a non-profit organization started by Rewat Raj Timilsina to help deal with the problems that children living on the streets in Nepal face. We were put in contact with Rewat through Kishore, a photographer who worked with Rene at VOW and BOSS magazines.

rewat cameralcd


According to Rewat, who once lived on the streets himself, children and youth end up without a home for many reasons. There is a constant influx of citizens from the countryside to the capital of Kathmandu, and job growth is not keeping up with this population growth. Also, many children suffer from abuse at home and end up leaving to live on the streets.

Once there, children often turn to petty theft and drug use. JAFON attempts to curb these behaviors by refusing to purchase stolen goods for the garbage/recycling program that they run. The money that the children earn from collecting garbage can be used to purchase food from the center. The center does not provide food for free to its clients, as they would then be able to use the money earned to purchase drugs. JAFON also provides a place for the children to sleep, watch television during the day, and socialize. They are currently working to find vocational training for the older youth, and have three clients who are now working.

The one non-photo related project that I would like to accomplish, time permitting, is to restart a garden that the kids at the JAFON center tried to get going in a side yard next to the pile of collected garbage.

groupphoto


Parting Ways with Internship Nepal

Wednesday, June 21, 2006
On June 20, 2006 I parted ways with the Internship Nepal program. Though I imagine working at the Nepali Times would have given me access to events that were more interesting than tea parties and fashion shows, such as what Rene experienced with VOW, I found it too difficult to remain in a program that was headed by someone who I had difficulty placing my trust in.

The day before, we had gone through Kathmandu, checking out various guest houses and flats for rent. In the end, it was between two hotels in Thamel, the Exelcior Hotel and Kathmandu Guest House, and a flat located next to the Prime Minister’s residence. Ultimately, we decided upon the Kathmandu Guest House, mainly because of its central location in Thamel and the services that were provided. Though the flat was very nice, it was a bit too far from the hustle and bustle and I would most certainly get lost traversing the small winding roads that lead up to it.

In cutting ties with Nardev Pandey, I had hoped to get my money back from paying for the program. After much negotiation, long moments of silence, and a few stare downs, I paid for a two week length stay (having been there for four days and with the website saying that you must pay a minimum of one month).

With that weight off of my shoulders, I was once again able to enjoy the city I was traveling in. Rene and I made our way back to Thamel and spent some time browsing through the myriad of stores that crowded the sides of the streets. Looking up into the sky, we could tell that it was about to start raining (it is monsoon season, though it had not rained once in the two weeks that Rene had in Kathmandu). I found it fitting that such a rejuvenating event occurred immediately after leaving Nardev’s house.

Never before have I enjoyed a hot shower and flush toilet as much as at the Kathmandu Guest House.

thamel

kids

clouds


First days in Kathmandu

Saturday, June 17, 2006
Three days later and I finally arrived in Kathmandu, Nepal. Spending a night in Bangkok was interesting as my hostel happened to be right next to the red light district of Patpong, made infamous by American GI's who were on R&R during the Vietnam War. I went out for a walk to buy some souvenirs for people and was constantly propositioned to go into bars, watch shows, get massages, etc. Strangely, the seedy parts seemed a bit overshadowed by the markets in the middle of the road selling all forms of knock-off merchandise.

Nardev Pandey, program director for Internship Nepal, picked me up at the airport and was quickly made our way to his humble abode. One they way I got a brief glimpse of life in Kathmandu, hundred of motorbikes, crowded tuk tuks, smoke spewing out of exhaust pipes, small shops, outdoor food stands and more. Later, Nardev took my around his neighborhood, showing me Singh Durbar, which houses many sections of the government, Kathmandu Fun Park, local parks, and markets.

Upon arriving back at his house, I met one of the other interns, Rene Edde. She began to tell me about the types of experiences that she had been having with the Internship Nepal program. Originally, Rene was to work at Spotlight Magazine. However, upon her arrival, Nardev informed her that Spotlight actually has no photographers because they merely reprint the non-edited (full versions) of what went into the newspapers. Instead, she was assigned to VOW and BOSS magazines, which are a women's and business publication. Unfortunately, instead of shooting hard news, she was shooting fashion shows and tea parties. There was even a four page section dedicated to photographing Nepali celebrities in funny or compromising situations. Not exactly the hard-hitting journalism or portfolio material one hopes for when travelling to another country.

The next day I was to meet with my publication, the Nepali Times, a weekly paper. From what I heard from Rene, I was a little worried that my situation would take a turn for the worst as well. The editors that I met there seemed to have no idea about the Internship Nepal program. I was told that they don't have any internships, but if I wanted to tag along with their photographer I could, and they would publish images if they were any good. They also did not know how I knew Nardev, asking if we were friends for some time. I was a bit disappointed, but hopeful because the Nepali Times seemed like a better fit than photographing tea parties.

On the way home, Nardev felt I should stop and take time to photograph a traffic jam, saying that the newspaper might be able to use it for the next day. He also decided to stop off at the zoo. He told me that Kiran, the photographer from the Nepali Times, wanted to meet with me in an hour, so there was no point in heading home. Sadly, this was just one of many lies that Nardev said to myself and Rene in our short time with him. Arriving home, I called Kiran only to confirm by belief that, no, we were not meeting that night but tomorrow. Nardev was merely trying to keep me out of the house to keep myself and Rene apart from each other so we could not confirm our suspicions about the program.

Apparently, Nardev was also lying when he said that all of the cell phone lines were used up and we would have to wait to get one, that only Nepali citizens could get cell phones, that he already deposited my money (it was in his desk, he took it out while he was talking to me (right before saying he didn't have it), telling Rene that her check had not cleared yet (it cleared after the fifth day), the list goes on and on, and for no apparent reason. We also had no language lessons or culture lessons as stated on the website.

I am not sure that I feel comfortable in staying in this program, as I do not know if I will get out of it the experience that I want during my stay in Nepal. This is especially true because I feel I can not trust the one person I should be able to depend on to help me in an unfamiliar place.

trafficjam


Summer Trip: Day 1

Thursday, June 15, 2006
The first day of my summer trip transpired without too many problems. This was the first time I had ever traveled outside of the United States and I quickly learned one thing: don't choose a window seat on a 12 hour flight. I was only able to sleep for two hours, though that did allow me time to watch Big Momma's House 2, Match Point, some movie about saving sled dogs in Antarctica that had the guy from American Pie (you know, the main guy), When a Stranger Calls, Jaws, an episode of Kim Possible, and read The Alchemist.

I landed in Japan at about 3am PST, 7pm in Osaka. Second guessing my plan to spend the night in the airport (my plane for Bangkok leaves at 1:05pm on the next day) I reserved a room at the Washington Hotel 15 minutes from the airport. I spent a good twenty minutes trying to call home. I will blame the fact that there were about four different sets of instructions for how to place a call based on the different phones, different phone cards and who knows what else (but I really know it was just because I am an idiot).

The hotel was very nice, and had free internet which I used to chat and skype.

washington hotel desk


Did I mention the toilet had the spray/bidet feature?

washington hotel toilet


I am now sitting in the Kansai International Airport using their free wireless internet. Is there any better way to waste three hours than chatting and watching youtube?